It is the irachi pathiri that takes me through the doors of Bombay Hotel
that has been wowing locals since 1949 with a range of traditional
Malabar snacks. Aside from favourites like the pazham pori (banana
fritters), samosas and mutton cutlets, I discover a local version of the
macaroon. The melt-in-your-mouth Kozhikode macaroon is ultra light and
flavoured with a hint of rosewater.
Locals refer to it as the sherbet shop opposite Paragon restaurant – the
establishment has no name or signboard. That hasn’t kept the crowds
away. The owner recycles his limited inventory of glasses faster than
the constant churn of customers who swear by his refreshing nannari
sherbet (the milk-infused version is worth checking out too).
The region’s unique juice and milkshake traditions have spawned
entrepreneurs who have taken this fine art of blending fruits across
India and to the Middle East. EPK Fruit centre is the city’s worst kept
secret and I had my fill of Sharjah Shake (only they know the secret
formula) and the equally decadent strawberry shake. It’s impossible to
do justice to Kozhikode’s fascinating culinary traditions in a
whistle-stop fashion but some moments do stand out. Like the moment when
I was jostling with locals at Kumari Banana Chips, and caught the aroma
of fresh banana wafers wafting through the crowded store: enough to
convince me to start planning my next trip.
ubiquitous Sulaimani (black) tea.
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