Friday, May 31, 2019

Plateful of success

Santhosh Mary’s flatware made from areca palm spathes is flying off the shelves from her home-based unit in Valadi
Dinner plates and bowls of various sizes are lined up, ready for collection at the entrance of J Santhosh Mary’s home in the village of Valadi, 18 kilometres from Tiruchirapalli.
A large number of them will be picked up by caterers in neighbouring towns and cities; another batch will be dispatched to clients in Germany and Canada.
The vessels are made from spathes of the areca palm ( paaku in Tamil), and are completely biodegradable, which has boosted their marketability in view of the recent ban on single-use disposable plastic products in Tamil Nadu.
“When I started out in 2009, it was very difficult to get buyers, because plastic was everywhere. Shopkeepers would object to my pricing plates at Rs. 2, as disposable plastic ware was always much cheaper,” says Santhosh Mary, who employs six people to run her home-based cottage industry setup.
“The ban has created a new demand, especially in the mass catering sector. In fact, there are days when it’s not possible to meet everyone’s orders.”
Upgrading technology
The spathe is a sheath that encases the flower cluster of the areca, and falls off naturally.
Santhosh Mary sources them from agents, buying 3,000 to 5,000 pieces at a time, according to the demand. “A spathe can be used to make around three 12-inch dinner plates. While Indian clients are not very particular about the colour, the plates going abroad have to be made out of white spathes. Our agents fan out across areca farms in Thuraiyur, Thammampatti and Namakkal and beyond. Most of the spathes for foreign orders come from Salem district,” she says.
The intrepid businesswoman, a mother of two and a graduate in Economics with a Masters in Administration, has come a long way from the day she attended a plate-making course organised by the Women Entrepreneurs Association of Tamil Nadu (WEAT) in Tiruchi in 2007.
“I wanted to make better use of my time after marriage, and felt that this course would be ideal. But the early machine was manually operated with pedals, and quite slow,” says Santhosh Mary. “After buying one, I realised that I would have to upgrade the technology to make a profit.”
Investing in two semi-hydraulic electrical units manufactured in Coimbatore became the turning point in her business. “While I used to get just 200 plates out of a manual machine — and a lot of leg pain because it was so tough to operate — suddenly, I was making up to 1,000 in a day, minus the physical discomfort!” she says.
Today, Santhosh Mary operates her business with 20 machines, and turns out over 3,000 plates per day. “When we started out, each machine used to cost Rs. 3.5 lakhs. This has reduced to Rs. 2.8 lakhs as more people are getting into plate production. But the machines for export orders cost up to Rs. 7 lakhs, because their dies are different,” she says.
Going abroad
Santhosh Mary decided to look for export orders once her plates began to get a steady clientele locally. “Rather than going it alone, I felt it was better to let a professional agent handle the marketing for export,” she says. “I decided to invest in new machines three years ago for foreign orders only after I was convinced that there was an assured demand for areca flatware.”
She has engaged the services of a company based in Coimbatore for her exports and regional marketing.
With wholesale prices now fixed at around Rs. 3.80 to Rs. 4 per 12-inch plate (for a pack of 1,000), Santhosh Mary should technically be celebrating a boom period. But for the 20-odd areca spathe plate industry players in and around Tiruchirapalli, success has been conditional. “Though we wanted to raise our price only by 20 paise after the plastics ban in January, we are being undercut by a glut of cheaper plates from Karnataka,” she rues. “Areca farmers have already increased the spathe prices, so our raw material is getting costlier.”
The supply of spathes has to be managed as well, since it is available only during the first six months of the year.
Even so, there have been some unexpected bonuses. “Earlier, only temples were buying our small bowls (called donnai ) to serve prasadam . After the plastics ban, wedding and function organisers have been snapping up our donnais to be used instead of plastic bowls,” says Santhosh Mary.
Temple festivals her busiest times. Every year, she processes large orders, from 2,000 to 10,000 plates per day exclusively for religious occasions.
Now diversifying into paper bag production, Santhosh Mary is hopeful of finding a market for that as well. “We have to relearn the importance of using eco-friendly products in our daily life,” she says.
Punched out
  The areca spathes, which are hard and woody in texture, are soaked in water in specially built tanks for several hours until they become pliant, and then drained well before they are ready to be used. “If you make the plate when the spathe is too wet, you can end up with fungal growths on the final product,” says Santhosh Mary, who has put one staff member in charge of just the soaking and sorting of the spathes according to size. “If the plates dried completely in the sunlight, they can last up to a year in storage,” she says.
As a faint smell of charred wood fills the workshop adjoining Santhosh Mary’s residence, the metal dies of the machine punch out plates using heat compression. Workers manually fix the spathe and remove the surplus each time. While utensils for the Indian market are deeper (“since we use many gravies in our food,” explains Mary), those bound for foreign shores are more shallow and angular in shape.
The intrepid businesswoman, has come a long way from the day she attended a plate-making course organised by the Women Entrepreneurs Association of Tamil Nadu (WEAT) in Tiruchi in 2007

Sunday, May 26, 2019

Goa kitchen proud


Farmers’ markets abound, selling produce, and products like juices, wines, vinegars, jams and candy. One of the highlights is the mangoes, Goa boasts more than 40 varieties along with jackfruit and kokum (the berries, used as a souring agent, also go into the summer drink, sol kadi). 

Goa Farmers Market in Margao (the next edition will be in 2019 September), it had sold local honey, cold pressed coconut oil, home made Goan sweets and pickles.

If you missed the Margao market, head to the Ambeachem (Mango) Fest, on May 14 at Nestor’s Farm, Valpoi. “You can enjoy Goan food with mango curry, walk among the groves and learn how to make mango grafts,” says Marius Fernandes, the organiser.

Before the rains
The weekly Friday market at Mapusa is popular among locals, with its varieties of tamarind, whole spices and chillies “I used to regularly visit the Mapusa market to  buys rare products like kokum butter (a healthy substitute for oil) here.

The biggest fair for provisions, however, is held in Margao, during the Feast of the Holy Spirit. Usually held 50 days after Easter (on June 9 this year), it is known for its lentils, sausages, condiments It is also the place for spicy balchao and rechado masala.

Another highlight is the annual Vasant Puja, held in the southern taluk of Canacona. “The meal [served] celebrates the diversity of food available at this time of the year. It comprises fruits like mango, jackfruit and pineapple, served with boiled grams. You wash it all down with a refreshing drink called panak, made with lime or mango juice, jaggery and pepper. It is quite the crowd puller,” says Om Prabhugaonkar, a local.

Working up an appetite
The summer season has its special dishes. Mangoes are used in pickles, jams and sasav — a “sweet-sour dish made from coconut, jaggery and ghotta (raw wild mangoes),” says caterer Anjana Amonkar. “There’s also a gravy dish made from ghotta called uddamethi,” she adds. Tender jackfruit is another favourite. . We also make a chutney, sushel, flavoured with charcoal. Its seeds are stored and added to leafy vegetables,” she says.
mango leather, or mango saath, where the pulp is sun-dried, layer by layer. A similar recipe is prepared using jackfruit pulp. And finally, there are the chips. Besides jackfruit, tubers like sweet potatoes (locally known as kanga) are deep-fried. “My favourite is mana, sweet potato chips fried in coconut oil. It is the best rainy day snack,” 

Organic farmers Market

1, 21st cross st, Indira Nagar, Adyar, Chennai 600020 Near youth hostel Ph. # 9841348359

Vegetables and fruits will be available on Tuesday and Fridays
Working hours: Monday through Saturday 10am to 7pm

Safe Food Sundays,  Venue: Mahalingapuram ime: 10am to 1.30 pm

Muslin man

Saiful Islam, a textile revivalist from Bangladesh, tells us how he is working to bring the fine fabric into the mainstream world of fashion
In an irony of the sort that makes us laugh wryly, the British destroyed the muslin trade in Bengal, leaving nothing for the next generation of weavers to resuscitate. Yet, when it comes to its preservation, the West is miles ahead: muslin forms a large part of museums there. Saiful Islam, a textile revivalist who shuttles between the United Kingdom and Bangladesh, discovered this bitter truth, and is now on a mission to revive muslin in its original avatar.
Saiful has made a well-researched film,The Legend of the Loom that takes viewers on a 2,000-year-old journey from the pages of the Mahabharata to the rivers of Bengal, where the cotton plant grew. He has written a tome called Muslin. Our Story and has been reviving this diaphanous material in his homeland from 2014.
He talked about his passion for muslin at the fifth edition of Threads of Tradition, a platform for conversations with experts in textiles, at Taneira in South Extension recently. Muslin saris and copies of his book were put on display at the showroom. Here are excerpts from an interview.
Take us through the work you have done so far?
The story of my film is largely based upon the work I have done. T9fx (a production house) directed it but needed the input as the topic was unknown to it. We wanted to revive muslin, the world’s first global brand, but we wanted to do it in multiple ways. We wanted to tell the story from the way we perceive it should be told: our geography, craft, people, history and portraying the role the West played in its demise. Previously, muslin was never shown from these angles. Normally, craft is seen as a pretty item. It is important to understand it from the sociological and political angles.
How would your describe muslin and its importance from a historical perspective?
Muslin is the most wonderful textile that was ever woven, for its simplicity and demand it generated world-wide. Machilipatnam down South and Mosul in Iraq were the trading places. It was collected there. But when people saw it over there they thought it was made there. However, it was always made in Bengal as phuti karpas, a special cotton plant, grew along the banks of the Meghna and Shitalakshya rivers. We hope its silken threads and traditional weaving process will return; I am hopeful that my work on this painstaking process will soon bring good results.
How do you seek to preserve it for the next generation?
I showed the film to weavers in my homeland. While the rest faltered, only Al Amin succeeded in producing muslin in its pure form. I am only interested in preserving the classics and then we want to see how the market accepts it. Personally, I have revived 15 to 20 Jamdani saris. People don’t know the connection. In India, there are other forms of Jamdani but they are diluted forms.
Were the Mughals the main patrons of muslin?
The demand was more during the reign of the Mughals. However, the Nawabs of Murshidabad and Dhaka were instrumental in patronising it. Muslin was worn by kings and queens and traded from Rome to Indonesia. It was crudely annihilated by the British colonialists in the mid 19th century to support their machine-made clothes. History tells us that the British cut the thumbs of weavers off.
Where do muslin-makers work?
Muslin makers are at Narayanaganj and Roopganj. They mainly work around the coarse, thick version. Muslin was used during the Second World War as bandages, during photo lighting. Some people used them as undergarments for themselves and for babies.
How is it that Jamdani survived but muslin didn’t?
Jamdani survived in the coarse form; it is not in its original refined version. Some weavers survived to take the counts from 400 to 1,000. The maximum count that we have heard of is 1,200. But the maximum I have seen is 650. Jamdani is a form of muslin; in fact it is the main form. When we do it in flowered or figured motifs it becomes Jamdani. Muslin is also in plain, striped and chequered versions. Muslin thread was soft and delicate and spun in a humid environment, from dawn to dusk on river banks.
Which designers have worked well with the fabric?
Aneeth Arora of Pero, has done excellent work. We gave her muslin and it was used in the show we showed in our film. In Bangladesh, Bibi Russell and other designers are drawing their inspiration from their own culture and traditions.
Do weavers in Bangladesh work with real zari or have they substituted it with copper?
Most cases are substitutes because they cannot get pure zari. Demand is for cost-effective polyester or rayon. I have stayed away from zari, because it did not have large usage, but I will use it in its pure silver form later on (in the revival effort).

Chennai’s first zero-waste grocery store is in Mylapore


A greener way to shop

On a blazing summer afternoon in Ranga Streeta new shop the Ecoindian - Zerowaste Store. The store is the third in the country to turn completely zero-waste, after Ecoposro in Goa and Adrish Zero-waste Organic Store in Pune.  The customers are also given a 5% discount if they bring back the used jars for a refill. The store houses many Chennai-based brands like aba probiotic, Ecofemme, Jyo’s Pickles and Auroway. The duo is planning an awareness drive on June 5, for World Environment Day, about zero-waste lifestyle in association with the Zero-waste Group, Chennai. Contact 8124001177