Andamans island after island

It is six o’clock in the evening, but it feels like 11 at night. There is no Internet connection. No social media to distract us. No deadlines to chase. No commitments to be met. We pretty much live in the moment in the Andaman Islands. The Islands — though slowly being considered a tourist destination — must not be seen as another Phuket. The beaches, forests and backwater retreats are stunning, but not commercial in the least. The Islands support an incredible variety of aquatic and wild life, so responsible tourism is a must to protect its incredible eco-system.

There are 572 islands in Andaman and Nicobar, of which only 36 are inhabited, 24 in the Andamans and 12 in Nicobar. The Islands are home to varied tribes, including the Jarawas, the Onge, the Great Andamanese and the Sentinelese. Mainstream society includes a wide cross-section, including Bengalis, Tamilians, Malayalis and Telugus.

On a hot Monday afternoon, we touch down at the tiny Port Blair airport, from where we make our way to Sea Shell hotel, which turns out to be quite a comfortable accommodation. Port Blair is the busiest town. Though, here too, life moves at an unhurried pace. We have a packed itinerary that starts with a visit to Corbyn’s Cove beach and ends with a light and sound show at Cellular Jail, a colonial prison where Indian freedom fighters were subjected to brutality by the British and later the Japanese. The next day includes a visit to Samudrika Museum, which houses exhibits of the Island’s tribal communities, marine, animal and plant life.

We look forward to our trip to Ross Island, which lies roughly 2 km from Port Blair. This uninhabited island has a rarely known history. It was once the administrative headquarters of the British, before 1941. But following an earthquake, the administrative centre was shifted to Port Blair. In 2004, the tsunami washed away much of the island, saving Port Blair from a massive calamity. The island resembles a sepia-tone photograph. The grand, crumbling British structures, including the Presbyterian Church, the Chief Commissioner’s residence and even a water distillation centre, though considerably reduced by the ravages of time, still stand in all their majestic glory.

Our third day at the Islands is the most adventurous. We head to the highly recommended Havelock Island, a haven for backpackers, where we visit Elephant Beach, which turns out to be quite crowded, bustling with people eager to snorkel and play water sports. We next head to Radhanagar Beach, listed fourth among the most beautiful beaches in Asia, and is stunning with its satin-white beach and azure waters. Tired and ravenous from our day-long trip, we return to the hotel to gorge on some mouth-watering sea food, ranging from lobsters to shredded crab.

The icing on the cake, though, was a thrilling excursion to two inhabited islands, South Button and Henry Lawrence. The trip, conducted by Barefoot, began with a 40-minute journey in a speed boat from Havelock to South Button Island, where we went snorkelling deep in the waters. We were then whisked away to Henry Lawrence, where we camped at the secluded Tamarind Beach. Surrounded by wilderness, the beach has a stark, arresting beauty to itSnorkelling in its clear, blue waters reveals a world of diverse aquatic life. We spotted royal angelfish, false clown anemone fish, parrotfish, a range of starfish, and Andaman lobster, among others. One of the most fascinating creatures on the beach was the hermit crab in various hues, sizes and shapes. You could spend hours just looking at them.

Heady from our day-long adventure, we return to Port Blair on the Makruzz, the fastest passenger ship in the Andamans. Still craving for more adventure, after a brief rest at our hotel, we make our way to Chidiya Tapu, nestled in the heart of Port Blair. No two beaches are the same in the Andamans. Chidiya Tapu is just as non-commercial as the rest of the beaches, and just as unique. There is a host of places still to visit, including Viper Island, Neil Island, Long Island, Rangat and Mayabunder. The Andaman Islands are indeed a treasure trove of discovery.