footwear

http://chennaishoes.blogspot.in/

A great pair of shoes adds character to your clothing and personality,” says 23-year-old Pune-based Naman Shah who started Cuero - Handcrafted Luxury, a made-to-measure bespoke leather shoe line for both men and women. An inherent passion for shoes imbibed from his father coupled with the big market for handcrafted leather shoes made him start Cuero last year. “I wanted to offer customised, affordable shoes with a ‘Made in India’ logo.

Fragrant shoes! Sounds oxymoronic. Not to 23-year-old Delhi-based Karan Vij who recently launched Scentra, a unisex shoe line that comes infused with strawberry fragrance. The idea came about during his stay in California, “Just like we wear perfume to feel good, scented shoes keep the feet smelling fresh all day. It sounds exciting especially for sockless shoes. Scentra re-engineers the yarn and the outsole and dyes the scent in the shoes. Aimed at redefining the shoe experience, these casual slip-ons are eco-friendly and come in many quirky colours and with stripes, polka dots and florals.

Karan points out that more than the style factor, when it comes to shoes it is comfort that matters the most. “That’s why we call our range of shoes ‘bed for your feet’. We wanted to make comfortable shoes dressier and fun. We have put an extra layer of cushioning in the insole to make you walk that one extra mile. This is essential to walk in large office spaces and mega malls.” Does the fragrance last forever? “We have tested these shoes for a good time in Europe.

But in our weather condition, the fragrance might diminish with time but will not be completely lost.” Karan is happy with the response and excited that people are now open to innovation in every area. He has plans to launch a kid’s range and open flagship stores. But it’s one step at a time for Karan.

n Ahmed Dulla's shoes

DULLA Shoes is slowly creating waves. Ahmed Dulla has been selling handmade shoes since 2010, right after he graduated from the Footwear Development and Design Institute (FDDI) in India.

“I always had the best shoes during my school years,” remembers Ahmed Dulla. In fact, his friends would actually ‘book’ his shoes days in advance. “They would have to tell me beforehand if they wanted to wear a particular pair of shoes so that no one else would get it that day,” he smiles.
The soft-spoken 25 years old is probably the first young shoe designer in Nepal. His childhood fascination for shoes grew beyond pestering his parents for expensive shoes – in grade four, he was wearing shoes worth Rs 5,000 – when he had to ask himself what he wanted to do after graduating from high school.

He spent three years learning the basics of footwear design at FDDI. When he first discussed his plan to study footwear design, his father asked him to choose a normal career. His uncle asked him why he wanted to be a shoemaker.

“That shook up my resolve a bit,” he laughs. “On the day of admission, I asked myself if I really wanted to do this. But since then, there’s been no looking back.”

After six months of internship at G-Shoe Export in Mumbai, which exported shoes to companies like Zara, he made up his mind to work independently. He started out by designing men’s footwear. He sold the first pair for Rs 5,000 in India.

“I told the customer to pay me what he thought I deserved and that’s the amount he handed me,” he says.

Ahmed has sold around 200 pairs of shoes till date both in India and Nepal, without any retail shop. He relies on social media and word of mouth to keep his business going and get new customers.

He uploads pictures of new designs to gauge the reaction. Sold within the price range of Rs 2,500 to 3,500, his shoes have to compete with the vast Chinese products in the market. In his own words, his shoes are sleek rather than flamboyant.

The responses for his creations are varied. Some have said they started wearing heels, some claim that his heels are comfortable enough even to run in.

The quick-thinking designer is always improvising and fixing his designs. During an instance when the back portion of a shoe was very loose, he inserted a piece of paper cleverly within the strap to tighten it. And to loosen a pair, he inserted a plastic full of water inside the shoe.
“Then I put the shoes inside the freezer. The water turned to ice and it expanded the shoes as well. It’s simple physics,” he says.

While he hasn’t received a single complaint since he started selling his shoes, he shares an incident from his internship days that has made him view individual opinions in a different light. “Once, my boss told me to throw my design in the dustbin because he found it horrible. I threw it. Later, I retrieved it and put it up on Facebook where I received seven orders for it. It was a men’s shoe design but most of the orders were from women. That made me realize that individual opinions don’t have the final say,” he smiles.

The constant load shedding and the scarcity of good leather in Nepal are some of the reasons that he now manufactures his shoes in a factory in Mumbai. He okays the leather and the wood (for the heels) before they are manufactured.

“There are still many problems. Where it could actually take 10 days to produce 10 pairs of shoes, the factory takes many extra days. Thus, wasting valuable time,” he rues. The lack of skilled laborers in Nepal is a huge problem that not only he suffers from but also big established shoe companies in Nepal.

“Sometimes I decide to make myself a pair, and if it’s simple men’s loafers, I can finish it in a day,” he says.
Women’s high-heeled shoes are more complicated and time-consuming. He has to be very careful and precise when he designs and makes his shoes. A simple mistake can be costly, as there’s no redoing it. He has to start all over with a fresh piece.

The young designer is in talks with Sky Shoes to collaborate on men’s collections. He can also sell his shoes in Holland and Australia where interested retailers have asked to team up.

“The only problem is that their sizes are extremely big. Women in Nepal and India wear sizes from 35 and above while abroad, their sizes are 40 and 45,” he states.

So his next plans include establishing a small footwear design institute.

On your next trip to Mahabalipuram, make time for the footwear on offer at Shakti Leather House

If you want something besides branded luxe options and the shoes found at malls, drop by K Dayalan’s  little store in Mahabalipuram. Over seven years in the business, the cobbler has been nurturing a clientele that includes foreign tourists, for his leather mules, bags and sandals. “I started off earning Rs5 a day, stitching shoes and bags. My uncle trained me and I worked for nearly 13 years near the Five Rathas, one of Mahabalipuram’s many monuments,” he begins. Currently, Dayalan makes Rs20,000 a month and has four workers under him. “I buy leather from Ranipet in Chennai and make shoes in at least 25 designs. I make them from what I’ve seen and learnt in the past. I use a lot of bright colours like pink, gold and red so the shoes stand out. Bright colours are always popular among expats.” The store also sells belts and wallets and allows you to customise. “Show me a design and within a week, we can make it for you,’’ he confidently says.

When people visit Moonrakers (the restaurant), they drop by his store to pick up shoes,’’ says Dayalan, who sees a full house on weekends. Dayalan whose products are also available at Curio Shack, a garment store in Chennai, is looking for additional retail points. “Vanita Nandakumar, the owner of Curio Shack picked up a few of my products, and  then placed a bulk order,” says Dayalan, whose shoes cost between Rs400 and Rs2,000. Details: 9940461661

Ultimate guide to guys' shoes

You Can Judge a Man by His Shoes




They reveal whether he takes pride in the little things. If he throws on a nice suit and pairs it with cheap, clunky lace-ups, he's not what you'd call a detail man. And if he leaves his pricey wingtips scuffed and unpolished, he may not be the closer you're looking for.

(Photo: CN Digital Studio)

There are numerous styles of shoes out there, but what's great about being a man is that you can do perfectly well by sticking with just a few. You don't need to maintain some Carrie Bradshaw–esque obsession about the latest and coolest. If you invest in a handful of sensible (and stylish) pairs and take care of them, you'll be set for years. You just need to take that first step.

1. Don't Be So Damn Square


Before we start talking about styles of shoes, let's talk shape. If you're still walking around in square-toe, rubber-soled lace-ups—the kind you buy on the cheap and that make you look like you've got platypus feet—grab them from your closet and toss them.

Seriously. your shoes should be as streamlined as the rest of your wardrobe. That means a slim contour (but not painfully skinny) and a rounded (but not sharp) toe. They'll look stylish, tasteful, and masculine. And that's all you can ask for.

2. Some Basic Advice About the...Basics(Photo: Courtesy of colehaan.com)

The one shoe every man should own is a black lace-up. You can dress it up or dress it down; it'll work with everything from jeansto suits. And that's the thing—don't think of it as special-occasion footwear. Avoid frilly or ornate details and you'll be able to wear the shoes as easily to the office as to the club.

3. Sure, No One Sees the Bottom of Your Feet...(Photo: David Rinella)

Shoes take a pounding. And nowhere more than in their soles. You need to think about that and make some decisions. Do you want everlasting soles or more bounce in your step?

4. Leather Soles? We Like 'Em Extra Chunky

Some guys think leather soles mean hard and uncomfortable. Not true. If the shoes are well-made, they'll mold to your feet and serve you just fine. True, they won't be as cushiony as a pair ofNew Balances, but if you want real dress shoes, you want leather soles. Period. Now you've got two choices: There are those slim, contoured kinds that exude elegance and go great with a luxurious custom suit. And then there are the heftier lace-ups with chunkier soles. They're what we show a ton of in the magazine these days. They go great with skinny jeans or trim-cut suits. And if you take care of them (see number 7), they'll last you a lifetime.

5. Join the Rubber Revolution

Let's say you're insistent on extra padding for your lace-ups. The good news is that there are now plenty of stylish, wonderfully made dress shoes with full rubber soles, or at least rubber inlays. They're great for crappy weather and for comfort. But keep in mind that once full rubber soles wear down, that's it for them. Replacing the heels (or protecting them with taps) isn't a viable option as it is with leather-soled shoes.

6. Save Your Sole 

How to guarantee eternal life for your dress shoes

The most worn item in your wardrobe—that pair of quality leather-soled dress shoes you regularly wear to the office—requires the most attention. We asked Joe Rocco, third-generation cobbler and owner of Jim's Shoe Repair on East 59th Street in Manhattan, to talk parts and service.

Taps: Plastic is quieter, metal more durable. Either will prevent the soles (and heels—be sure you remember the heels) from grinding away. Taps typically wear out or fall off after about six months.$3 per pair.

Soles: Walking on warped soles can ruin a good pair of shoes and even cause back trouble. Start checking your soles after a year or so, and be sure new ones are sewn on, never glued. $75 per pair

Heels: New heels every couple of years are a good bet, and the right cobbler can adjust them to fit how you walk. $25 per pair

Heel Pads: Most shoes have shock-absorbing rubber rears to save your soles (and ankles). Have a cobbler replace them before they wear down to the leather soles themselves. $10 per pair

7. Polish One Off 

GQ design director Fred Woodward on how to do it yourself (better)

(Photo: Ditte Isager)There was a shoeshine man who used to make the rounds at 745 Fifth Avenue, the building where I worked my first year in New York. He was fond of saying that a true gentleman didn't feel properly dressed unless his shoes were freshly shined every morning. I always liked the sound of that—even if it did feel more than a little self-serving—but after he borrowed $50 from me (and countless other soft touches throughout the building), never to be seen again, I decided that shining my own shoes once a week was gentleman enough.

I love the ritual: the careful laying out of newspaper, and the round tin of Kiwi polish with the built-in wing-nut-shaped turn-key opener—a damned near perfect piece of industrial design. After enough applications, the old T-shirt that I use becomes a work of art in its own right, a poor man's Matisse. And my dad's horsehair brush (with the Good Housekeeping Seal branded into its hardwood handle) is the very same one he taught me with. First, I brush the shoe well, cleaning it of any dust or dirt. With the rag wrapped tightly around my first two fingers, I apply the polish in small, tight swirls. By the time I'm through applying wax to the second shoe, the first will be dry and ready to brush, and that's all I do.

8. Now Get Your Shine Box! 

What you'll need to care for your shoes(Photo: Courtesy of kiwicare.com)

A. One tin of black wax polish and one tin of neutral. The black for your black leather dress shoes (obviously). And the neutral for your brown—because you essentially want to moisturize the leather, not color it.

B. An old T-shirt or towel will do the trick for applying wax. But if you buff your shoes post-brushing, invest in a nice soft chamois.

C. Don't skimp on the brush—you want a wood handle and horsehair bristles. And for when you're running out the door and just don't have time for a full polish, keep an instant-wax sponge in your kit for a quick touch-up.

9. Kill a Tree, Save Your Shoes(Photo: courtesy of allenedmonds.com)

Yes, if you want your shoes to last, you need shoe trees. Ones made from cedar. They'll preserve the shape of your shoes, prevent them from developing deep creases, absorb moisture, and even make them smell better. They're a no-brainer.

10. Reboot Your Suit


Wearing boots with a suit achieves two things: It says you understand that uniforms look best when they're messed with, and that when it's raining or snowing, your Ferragamos should be left in the closet.

It needs to be the right suit—slim and stylish, and preferably cut from a durable, wintry fabric.

The boot itself? Leather-soled military-style ones are ideal. They're like dress shoes, only a hell of a lot tougher.

11. Lose the Laces, Gain Some Style(Photo: CN Digital Studio)

"The penny loafer's got a fusty reputation, but so many designers these days are doing it in this modern, streamlined shape; instead of making your feet look stubby,a loafer byBass or Prada will actually make them look longer. And a black penny loafer takes on the character of any outfit—when you're in a business suit, it's formal; when you're in a polo and jeans, it's casual. Consider it the perfect in-between when you don't feel like putting on a pair of sneakers or dressy lace-ups."—Jim Moore, GQ creative director

12. The Sneakers That Suit You

(Photo: Fairchild Archive)Pairing sneakers with a suit is a move we love and a smart way to reinvent a suit you already own. But you do need to tread carefully. Consider the following advice:

Unless you are Kanye West, stick with no-frills sneakers in muted colors—black, gray, white, etc. If worn correctly, they'll take off more years than Botox.

This isn't a conventional nine- to-five look. So go with a slim suit (cropped relatively short) or a loose-and-easy one. Just not your basic business suit.

Finally, low-tops, please. High-tops are for ballers and serious fashion junkies.

13. Sock It to 'Em

(Photo: Courtesy of jcrew.com)If you're sitting at your desk reading this, stop for a second and cross your right leg over your left. When your pant leg rides up, exposing some dress sock, ask yourself this: Do you like what you see? You should. Your socks should have as much personality as—if not more than—the rest of your outfit. You've got two ways to go.

Match 'Em Up—The Conservative Way...


When choosing dress socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you're wearing a navy suit with black or brown shoes, reach for navy socks.

...or Flash Some Color


You can tell a lot about a guy by glancing at his ankles. Is he a stick-to- the-rules type—the kind who dutifully matches his socks to his pants every morning? Or is he the type who understands that dressing well often means dressing with a rebel streak? We think you can pair a boldly patterned or colored dress sock with pretty much anything—a sharp suit, elegant pants, or, say, a pair of dark jeans. Just look for stripes or colors that complement your look up top (maybe matching your shirt or tie) while contrasting with your pants or shoes. And don't worry if you break a rule or two—that's the point.

Socks this bold work one of two ways: Either they pop against a completely neutral outfit (white shirt, dark suit and tie), or they complement what's going on upstairs. Could be a red tie, could be a yellow oxford.

14. The White Powder That Will Get You Hooked(Photo: Courtesy of goldbond.com)


"I used to think that keeping a bottle of talc around was like reaching for hair tonic or witch hazel—you know, old-guy stuff. But then this magazine—and pretty much every fashion designer and J.Crew mannequin—started telling us that we've got to go sockless in the summer months. Looks cool, feels cool. Except, that is, when your feet are a swampy, sweaty mess. So now, suddenly, I'm one of those guys who use talcum powder obsessively. I give my wingtips or boat shoes a dusting with it every morning before I head to the office. My feet slide right in, and they actually do feel cool. Of course, one dusting doesn't completely keep me from sweating on brutally hot and humid days; the stuff's not magic powder. That's why I keep a stopgap bottle in my desk drawer."—Adam Rapoport, GQ style editor

15. Show Some Ankle

Going sockless is a quick way to invigorate everything from a trim suit to short-cropped khakis. But there's a sensible way to pull it off. Do you really want to walk around all day not wearing socks with nice leather shoes? Thought so. Besides talcum powder, consider loafer socks—they're so low-cut they're essentially invisible. We like the ones from Bananarepublic.com. Buy a bunch and wear them all summer long.

16. The Cheat Sheet:


Your dress shoes should be as contoured as your suits. Say no to square toes.

Black lace-ups are the most dependable and versatile shoes you can own.

Real dress shoes have leather soles...but there are now plenty of quality rubber-soled options available.

Take care of your shoes: taps on the heels and toes, cedar shoe trees when you're not wearing them.

Yes, you can—and should—wear sneakers with a suit. But keep them simple and understated.

Shoe Garage at Shahpur Jat offers custom-made shoes.

Shahpur Jat has become the ‘go to’ place for Delhiites hunting for good food or for those interested in shopping niche products or experiences

Situated in the heart of South Delhi, Shahpur Jat is an urban village where Delhiites can get everything from the Bihari dish ‘litti chokha’ to exquisitely decorated cupcakes to custom-made shoes and wedding gowns.

Over the years, the village has been transformed into a commercial centre, with new high-end boutiques right next to cramped and dingy shops that haven’t changed for decades. The area caters to those looking for niche products and experiences, like a yoga studio that offers classes accompanied by live sitar recitals. The village also has two studios where local bands practice and record.

One of the more popular restaurants in the area, the Potbelly Rooftop Café, serves Bihari food. With dishes like Aloo McLalu Chop, a sattu-flavoured drink and Litti Chokha, of course, the colourful café stands out.

“When we started around three years ago, Shahpur Jat wasn’t a hub like it is now. We were four storeys up, so we thought why would anyone climb all the way? That’s why we came up with Bihari food,” explains the café’s owner Puja Sahu.

Ms. Sahu says the menu is largely made up of traditional dishes that she ate while growing up in Muzzaffarpur, but it also includes experimental items like the Bihari Burger, which comes with Phataka Fries and Dehati Fish ’n Chips.

While enjoying his lunch at the café, German photographer Enrico says: “I come here very often because I love the food and I live near Shahpur Jat. Litti Chokha is my favourite as I had it when I was working in Bihar.”

For Delhiites, who don’t have a taste for Bihari food, there are other cafes in Shahpur Jat that offer a quick bite. The Coffee Garage serves up no-fuss sandwiches, rolls and drinks to busy shoppers. Students from nearby Kamala Nehru and Gargi College as well as NIFT can be seen whiling away their time between classes over cold coffees.

Next to the Coffee Garage is the Shoe Garage, which offers custom-made shoes. “The shoes here are very comfortable and I have a small shoe size, which I get here,” says Namrita, as she tries on a pair of silver-coloured sandals.

For those doing their wedding shopping, Shahpur Jat has boutiques that have designer lehengas, saris and gowns. “These days, girls usually want Western-style gowns instead of lehengas. Our range starts from Rs.32,000 and goes up to Rs.2.5 lakh,” says a shop attendant at Inchee Tape, a designer boutique run by Purvi Sahu and Sharad Sharma.

While the ritzy showrooms and cafes are doing brisk business, not everyone in the village is happy about the exposure the area has got in recent years.

“My family has lived here for 650 years. We were farmers before our land got acquired. Though it is good that the area has developed so much, it is not good for our children,” says Bhim Singh Lambardar, who has spent all his 82 years in Shahpur Jat. Dressed in a crisp white kurta and dhoti, he adds: “Girls come here dressed in short skirts and dresses. They shouldn’t be dressed like that as it is spoiling our children.”

But instead of leading to trouble, this clash of cultures has made Shahpur Jat a more lively and vibrant place, where the urban and rural coexist side-by-side.

http://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/Delhi/voices-from-an-urban-village/article5861507.ece

 https://www.facebook.com/pages/Paaduka-Ur-Sole-Mate/245664652125864?sk=photos_stream&ref=page_internal

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