Rice vs roti in Madurai

At Sree Mohan Bhojanalay,khoba rotianddal batihold their own in a land ofsappadu

Sree Mohan Bhojanalay is iconic in more ways than one. The establishment has been treating the Temple Town of Madurai to authentic Rajasthani food for nearly half a century, and boasts of an interesting history and an enticing menu.

Sree Mohan Bhojanalay, which began as a tea stall selling k achoris and samosas, is today a favourite with the city for its authentic Rajasthani thali . The joint also specialises in Jain food, catering to the handful of residents and pilgrims who come in from above the Vindhyas.

Tucked inside a narrow lane, the restaurant is next to the west tower of the Meenakshi Temple, and retains an old-world charm.

The food is simple home-cooked fare. Just for a little less than Rs. 150, the thali packs a slew of subzis, including standards like aloo and pyaz tamatar, peeli and kaali dal , basundi and gulab jamun for dessert, along with a glass of lassi and unlimited phulkas , puris and parathas .

Strict formulae

We continue to procure wheat from Punjab and UP. Our papads come from Bikaner, the achar from Pune and the zatka chutney from Kolhapur. Right from the dollop of ghee on the rotis to the amount of milk and sugar in the basundi , the formulae are strictly followed.

If there’s one place in Madurai where one can find k hoba roti and d al bati churma on the menu for dinner, then it’s Mohan Bhojanalay. A freshly baked khoba roti looks like a basket made of dough. “It takes about half-an-hour to make one ; it’s a signature dish of the Marwar region. A thick sheet of kneaded dough is stretched over a hot overturned kadai ,” explains Dinesh. “One khoba roti is eaten by six to eight people. The roti is shredded into crumbs and mashed with lots of lasooni dal . Some people also like it with ghee and jaggery or chutneys .”

The restaurant is also known for its brand of rabdi , doodhi and lauki halwa , apart from packed namkeens and khakhras that are sold at the counter. “It was by accident that I learnt to make these sweets. Once, I was left with extra mava and experimented in the kitchen. I introduced rabdi and basundi in the menu, and it worked well,” says Mohan. “I am now thinking of adding shrikhand to the list. However, my mantra for success has remained unchanged. It is all about giving the customers ‘ ghar ka swad ’