Forgotten flavours

At the family-run Selvi Ammal Gramiya Unavagam, tradition is taken as seriously as the black rice dosas 

Ever heard of aavarampoo dosa ? Ormoongil arisi sadham ? No? Well, explore the cuisine that belonged to what was then called Madrasapattinam, this summer at Selvi Ammal Gramiya Unavagam.

The aroma of freshly prepared food at the open kitchen is inviting. The Unavagam, which is open for lunch and dinner, is known for serving traditional and healthy food. “Cooking is done only by the family members,” says Raghunath Kuppuswamy, the owner. He says that they use organic cold-pressed groundnut and sesame oil for the dishes prepared on the veragadupu . Then adds that right from 2014, when it began, the family has ground their own spice mixes sans chemicals and preservatives. “Our unique spices are our speciality,” says Kuppuswamy.

Selvi Ammal Gramiya Unavagam uses traditional varieties of rice cultivated in organic farms in Cuddalore, Sirkazhi and Villupuram. “My mother was a milk vendor who dreamt of starting an organic unavagam (eatery),” says Kuppuswamy beaming. The menu changes every day. Dishes such as vaathukari , fish fry, mutton biryani, kambu dosa , aavarampoo dosa and karuppu kavuni arisi dosa are the specialities. Kuppamaal plays the role of the family elder who stamps her approval of authenticity before every dish is served.Do visit the organic juice stall which serves sugarcane juice, buttermilk and aloe vera juice in big glasses right outside the shop. Despite being located in a remote corner of Ramapuram, it sees a rush of customers every day. “Our customers are even from far-away places such as Pallikaranai. They come only for the taste and our friendly service,” says Kuppuswamy, who became especially popular after she served free food for jallikattu protesters last January at Marina Beach. 

The space is popular with students and young professionals. Families prefer takeaways because of the crowds. “The place serves quality, traditional food at a nominal price,” a regular customer, Rajaram comments. “Our quest to bring back traditional dishes has led us to the discovery of some forgotten ones,” says Kuppuswamy.

He says that they plan on bringing back the traditional way of eating on the floor from the banana leaf. “Money is not our priority. We want to ensure that those who come here stay healthy,” smiles Kuppuswamy. The restaurant is located at 4/2, Karpagambal Nagar, 1st Street, Ramapuram.9500046072.